Crested gecko health: Keeping your crested gecko fit and health. Crested geckos are among the easiest reptiles to keep as pets, providing that the few quite simple rules are followed.
* Crested geckos need a nutrient and calcium rich balanced diet, in order to allow them to grow properly and live a long and healthy life.
* In addition they demand a temperature gradient in order for them to thermo-regulate and better digest the nutrients in their food.
* Additionally they require plenty of space to move around, and being arboreal tree dwellers they also require a lot of climbing branches / perches.
* The most typical health problems that happen in cresties in captivity are generally a result of among the above not offered, or otherwise available towards the correct standard.
Below you will discover an insight into the most frequent of these problems and ways to ensure that they are prevented.
MBD: Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
Metabolic bone disease in geckos is most often caused due to a insufficient the correct nutrients being provided inside their diets.
Metabolic bone disease is really a deficiency of calcium, which leads to the gecko utilising the calcium reserves looking at the own body and skeleton to supplement this lack in calcium.
Using the reserves of calcium in its own body, the gecko’s skeleton is ‘warped’ and misshapen because of the bones becoming very weak and pliable.
This often brings about permanent disfigurement from the gecko, especially as bumps, twists and dips in the spine as well as a rotating of the hips, creating the tail to flop or jut-out at an unusual angle.
Metabolic bone disease can also result in a weakening of the jaw, causing the gecko finding eating far more difficult.
The jaw is often too weak for the gecko to close it itself, and the jaw remains permanently open.
Because of the weakening of the bones, MBD can also at its worst lead to numerous broken bones.
A gecko with MBD finds it harder to climb, and frequently lose the ‘stickiness’ on the feet and tail. When a gecko with MBD falls coming from a height, broken bones are often the end result.
Metabolic bone disease in the latter stages is actually a horrific sight to witness, as well as the gecko is twisted and contorted away from recognition.
In younger and crested gecko breeding females it is extra vital that you supplement feeding properly. Hatchlings put lots of calcium into bone growth, and breeding females make use of an extraordinary quantity of calcium when producing eggs.
Providing a wholesome, nutrient rich and balanced gecko diet is easily the most foolproof approach to assist in preventing your crested gecko developing MBD.
Preventing gecko Metabolic Bone Disease in crested geckos:
* Gut load live food just before feeding making them more nutritious
* Dust live food with nutrient powders, Calcium, and Calcium D3
* Give a good meal replacement gecko diet powder
* UVB light can also assistance to prevent MBD, since it helps the gecko to soak up and utilise the calcium in its diet more efficiently
* A lot of phosphorous in a diet can prevent calcium being absorbed. Avoid foods with higher phosphorus content.
* Floppy tail syndrome: FTS in crested geckos
Floppy tail syndrome in geckos is when the gecko’s tail literally flops in an abnormal direction. It is most noticeable if the gecko is laying upside-down, flat against the side of its enclosure, where point the tail usually flops down over its head or in a jaunty angle.
A healthy gecko tail would rest from the glass in the natural position.
It is believed that Floppy tail syndrome results mainly from a captive environment as cresties inside the wild would rarely come across a surface as flat, smooth and vertical as being an enclosure wall.
It really is considered that this flat surface is what can contribute to FTS in crested geckos, as laying on this vertical surface for prolonged amounts of time brings about the tail ‘flopping’ over because of gravity, and weakens the muscles at the tails base.
At its worst, floppy tail syndrome is known so that you can twist the pelvis of the gecko, predominantly due to the excessive weight put on the pelvic area when the tail flops to the side.
Because of this it is far from advised to breed a female crested gecko with FTS, as she could well encounter problems attempting to pass the eggs.
Although no concrete evidence is accessible, it can be assumed that providing lots of climbing and hiding places for your gecko might help to prevent them from sleeping on the enclosure walls.
Nonetheless it is still not fully understood whether here is the actual underlying reason behind FTS. Many believe it could be a genetic deformity, and therefore it may be passed from parents to their young although in the minute this seems unlikely.
Heat Stress in Crested Geckos
Heat Stress in crested geckos is the main killer of these usually very hardy and simple to care for reptiles.
Crested geckos will quickly show stress if kept at temperatures above 28C for prolonged time periods.
It is easier to keep up your crested gecko enclosure at temperatures even closer to around 25C rather than risk over being exposed to higher temperatures.
That being said you can allow elements of your enclosure to achieve 28C – as an example directly beneath the basking bulb – so long as your pet gecko can decide to transfer to a cooler area if they wish.
Higher temperatures only turn into a deadly problem whenever your gecko is forced to endure them constantly or for long amounts of time without the choice to cool down.
Research has shown that crested gecko in contact with temperatures of 30C without having the ability to cool down, can and can very likely die inside an hour.
Young/small geckos are even very likely to heat stress so it is advisable to always allow them the selection to go for the cooler end of their temperature range.
Cleaning your crested gecko vivarium:
Keeping your gecko enclosure clean will help you to prevent illnesses linked with bad hygiene, bacteria and moulds.
The crested gecko tank / enclosure will periodically need a thorough clean if it becomes dirty.
I find it easiest to recognize-clean the enclosures every day or two, removing uneaten food and excrement and wiping the edges in the enclosure with damp paper towel.
There are several reptile-safe disinfectants available now and those can be diluted with water to make certain a safe and secure environment for the gecko after cleaning and also you can use newspaper to clean up smears and streaks on glass enclosures.
It is actually advised to do a comprehensive complete clean in the enclosure and all of its contents once in a while. I tend to perform a big clean out each month to assist stop any unwanted bacteria accumulating.
With regular cleaning and upkeep your crested gecko enclosure should never create an unwanted odour or create mould/bacteria.
Choosing a healthy crested gecko:
A wholesome gecko:
• May have clean and clear nose and eyes. Eyes will be bright and shiny and is definitely not sunken into the head.
• Will not have layers of retained shed skin stuck at its extremities. Healthy geckos shed in a several hours and shed should never remain much longer than this.
• Is definitely not dehydrated: Dehydrated geckos may have loose skin, sunken eyes and will also be somewhat lethargic. Dehydration often leads to the gecko looking thin in comparison to a well hydrated gecko.
• Will be alert when handled, a unhealthy animal will likely be limp qrtdbr possibly shaky in your hand and will show virtually no interest or reaction in being handled
• Must have a plump, straight tail that can ‘grasp’ onto objects. An excellent test of the is that if the gecko wraps its tail around your finger.
• Needs to have almost Velcro like feet. In the event the gecko is failing to stick/climb – this can become a sign of MBD or retained shed.
Take a look at our website focused on the care and husbandry of crested geckos and leopard geckos.